[17.01.2024 :: 24.01.2024[

Malargue – Mendoza

The last stretch before we stay in Mendoza. Mendoza is important as we now have travelled approximately 10000km and our bikes need to be serviced. We have found Panella Motos which is an official YAMAHA service agent. And they agreed to let to take our bikes in on Thursday. Stefan booked us a nice appartment with its own laundry machine, and we will stay two days.

But first we need to get there. Another stretch of Ruta 40, which seems to be our road to follow up to Sico pass, where we will move into Chile.

Again amazing views, and later that day the temperature rose to about 32°C and we had wind again. Reached Mendoza at the agreed time, and that conludes that day.

Mendoza

Mendoza is the well known Argentinian wine region, which to the east it is bordered by desert and to the west is borderd by the Andes. In between there is a green strip of vineyard after vineyard. But we were not here for that. our bikes needed service, our clothes needed washing and some content needed to be created, and we only stayed for two nights.

The bike service was supreme, basically we gave them dirty bikes and they came back like the just rolled of the factory floor. All the actually things for the 20k km service were done as well. The laundry did pose a bit of a challenge as the machine came without a spin program. Well 32°C and low humidity did the trick anyway. The other thing which i promised myself to do was to write a daily chapter about the day we had as i kept forgetting things we talked about, the banter, but as well the more serious topics we discussed. Stuff we just saw along the way.

Mendoza – San Jose de Jachal

So after the bikes, the laundry and new writing resolutions. We left Mendoza by veering of the Ruta 40 into the desert to the east. The thermometer reached 34°C. The only change in scenery until San Juan where some peach and olive farms.
In San Juan we went back on the Ruta 40 and were quickly rewarded with more desert and mountains and a rise of the then half moon. The temperature rose up to 36°C.

By that time i was really missing my summer jacket – which fell victim to the luggage restrictions I had. The camping municipial might be nice for an afternoon asado, but with no showers after such a hot day not our choice for camping spot. The one we chose, not only had showers – of sorts, but as well a swimming pool, which was well maintened, even with a lifeguard on duty.

The thing of note is, that all day we did not see a single wind farm or solar farm and at least on that day there was enough sun ;-).

San Jose de Jachal – Belen

Not much to tell about today, except maybe three things

#01 – Stefan felt warm, at about 38°C so warm that at the end of the day he was not really feeling too well.

#02 – Saint worshipping and plastic waste. We are in catholic central, and saint worship can be seen along the roads quite often. In Region Patagonia as well as in Region Cuyo these places of worship or commemoration are often if not always accompanied by a lot of bottles of water. Which due to the strong winds are the blown through the countryside. I am not judging the worshipping, everyone can believe in whatever they choose, but the accompanying waste disposal i do not understand at all. Oh and just before we reached Belen i was suddenly reminded of the Simpsons intro, and the way back when established tire fire. Waste disposal by burning it.

#03 – as said 38°C at about 18:00 hrs which then led to a bit of the usual fight about which aircon setting to choose once we got a room – the room was chosen due to the weatherforecast promising thunderstorms – we finally agreed on 24°C which was ok*ish for me and ok*ish for Stefan.

#04 – The landscape

While the beginning of the trip was quite, well spectacular, this quickly changed and became almost absurd. The further we moved the more i had the feeling to be at some outerworld planet. Or if someone would have told me that some of the stone formations we saw are some ancient down space craft i would have had no problem believing it. Or maybe some unnamed entity having their secret, fully tricked out lair just behind the next mountain range. Yeah I do read and watch spy and scifi novels and series/movies.

Belen – Tolombon

The plan said something about either Salta or a little further. On the other hand though, at yesterdays drinks Stefan said we need to slow down our pace again. There have been a few long rides since Mendoza, late arrivals, and hot weather. Anyway we started riding at 09:00 hrs and without noticing it ended up at 2000m above sealevel.

Got down to about 1670m later during the day. Our first waypoint was supposed to be Cafayete. On our way there the Ruta 40 moved through Colalao del Valle, vineyards, green vegetation, very laid back feeling and near Tolombon i noticed the Altaluna Hotel and Spa part of the Bodega/vineyard Tukma. Long story short, we stayed. Running, some drone flying and blog posting incurred. So yeah basically an easy Sunday with proper wine.

By the way the DJI Fly App needs to have an internet connection every once in a while, or else the app will restrict the flight radius to 30m height and 30 m radius.

Tolombon – Cachi

Now that we had a short day, we wanted to get moving again. Tolombon to San Antonio de los Cobres. Only 320 km. Should be doable, yes it was said that there is the highest vehicle worthy pass on the way with 4965m and some gravel but it should be still doable. The navigation said sth about 6hrs and if we had our breaks on top, still doable.

After a bit of a late start – supplies and gas – and we started riding at 11:00 hrs. Still the same valley we have already spent two days at.

The gravel started at km 20 and for large stretches it was challenging to ride, deep sand, very loose grave. We had the feeling that whatever gravel stages we did up until that was just foreplay. And we clocked and average speed of about 40 km/h. 160km later at 15:00 hrs it dawned on us that we will not reach S.A. de los Cobres by daylight, and gravel by night is not an option. So the halfway point at Cachi beccame our stop. And it was well worth it. Nice room, very hospitable landlady and family. So overall a great town to stay and a very pleasant town.

Here i can already tell you that i am very happy that we stayed in Argentina as Ruta 40 in the north is just another marvel, with warmer / hotter weather then way down south.

Cachi – Susques

We are low on cash. Stefan wanted to revisit the Argentinian banks and foreign credit cards memory, and to see if the banks are still the graverobbers we remembered them to be. Yes they are. 20k ARS with added fees of 9k ARS. But as all the time we spent in Argentina on this trip credit cards where widely accepted we did not think to much about it. Lets finish the part over Abra del acay-

Gravel, sand, river crossings up to 4965m above sealevel. Oh yeah from this side of the mountain, it may have been that the road was closed, but as we did have oncoming traffic, we did not even stop to talk about it and on we went and we were rewarded with challenges, views and a fun ride.

Originally we intended to use the Sico border crossing, but as we were told – and confirmed – Sico pass is only open for goods carriers. In addition to that, reaching S.A. de los Cobres we had to realize that no one accepted credit cards. So the last 8k ARS went into gas and we moved on towards the direction of Susques. More gravel and sand at an altitude of ~3500 m above sealevel.

Well I fell down once at slow speed, shit happens.

We discussed about wild camping. While i had no problem with wild camping when we traveled by car, with the moto it is different. Basically we reak and with that going in to bed, I am not overly fond of. I agreed though, as the promise of the Atacama night sky is a very good motivation. Somehow Stefan did not realize my agreement and so we ended up all the way in Susques. And again, no credit card acceptance and no rooms, due to a fiesta the had there, everything was booked ;-). So we slept at a hotel parking lot. Not the best night we have had, but that is all part of the journey. The rides and places the days before anyway made it all worth it. Another 114km to the border of Chile and this not only concludes week #08 but as well our time in Argentina.

We need gas to get there however, and we are low on it, and cash, but that is the beginning of week #09.

Till next time everyone,
Happy Hacking