Panamerican Highway – week #41 – Northern Rockies / Banff / Calgary
[04/09/2024 – 11/09/2024]
Our Last Week – Whenever You Read IT
























Strange thing, every time I write the blog and look at what we did the past week, the first few days seem to be so far away, even though they just happened, and to some extend i have the feeling, that the longer we are on this trip, this feeling becomes stronger every time. On the plus side, back in Whitehorse (a lifetime ago) i have heard a band perform “Locomotive Breath by Jethro Tull” and since then it is part of my Panamericana playlist. Had that song in a playlist at least ten years ago, I can still listen to it, and actually i like it a lot.
Tonight is the first debate Harris vs. Trump and it may be the first time that Stefan and i will utilize the TV we have in our flat.





























Wednesday: Edmonton – David Thompson lodge/campground
while the day started rather boring – highway 16 towards west, and then some smaller back country roads towards Brazeau Reservoir – it got much much better after the reservoir. Once we turned on Hwy 11 you started to see the Rocky Mountains. First only glimpses, but after a while they were in full view.
It seems like in Alberta you can camp basically everywhere on state owned land for as long as every person has a camping pass. For a three day pass you pay 20$CAD, for a yearly pass you pay 30$CAD. Of course by the time we reached Abraham Lake we did not have that pass and cellphone service was to weak to get one online. Apart from that they wanted to have like passport numbers and such. One alternative would have been to purchase such a pass at a store that as well sells fishing/hunting licenses. The search for such a selling point led us to the David Thompson Lodge and after they told us that they are not selling the pass there, but have a camp site available for 38.50$CAD we took that one. and after a quick dinner i even got into the lake. Cold but not icy, very refreshing ;-). And the surroundings are just superb.
Thursday: David Thompson lodge/campground – Banff
With only 186 km till Banff we started the morning slow. Back on the road at close to 11, with clear blue skies and the Rocky mountains all around us. The drive towards the junction hwy11/hwy93 was already spectacular, but that got even better once on hwy 93. High mountains, glaciers, glassy lakes, simply perfect. Well there are a lot of people on the road, and all the spits, like at Bow Lake – are pretty crowded, understandably so with the weather forecast for the weekend. The campground we are at – tunnel mountain village 1 – is rather large but quiet. we will be staying two nights and are going for a little hike tomorrow. Today´s ride already gave an inkling of what all the fuzz is about, when people speak about Banff. I expect tomorrow to be even better.
Friday: Banff
Today is the day, after quite along time we are going hiking again and while both of us were looking forward to it the 0530 am alarm let us doubt our life choices – somewhat. anyway beautiful starry sky and two cups of coffee made up for it. Currently sunrise is at about 0700 am. We are ready and i stead of taking the bus to the city, just to transfer out of the city to Lake Minnewanka, we opted to take a 3km walk to the nearest bus stop. Arrived at the lake at about 0800 am and started walking. After 2.5 km we came to the junction were the path leads to Mt. Aylmer and here we were greeted with the first warning sign, bear activity. Yeah what else is new. Bear activity has been a constant since we started camping in California. Second sign, some 100 m further, some more attention was spent. You should only be hiking in groups of at least 4 persons spread apart approximately 9 m. G no, it is just the two of us, and even if you count myself double, weight compared to Stefan´s, we still would not be four persons. On wards we march. Sign three and four in close proximity, persistent are the not? Bear spray is a must, which have never bothered to buy oh yes and there is a up to 25’000$CAD fine. It took us another kilometer to discuss and do the responsible thing of turning around. Well in the end we still walked 21,6 km and it was quite nice, but it was not what we wanted to do. So hiking in berry season has to be planned way better. Well still some national parks to come. Once we reached Banff, we booked our self an accommodation for Calgary. Ah and i have to go to the shop tomorrow as my front suspension needs a closer look. And maybe my front fender will arrive while i am there. Regardless we will stay till Wednesday.
Saturday: Banff – Calgary
second day in a row getting up at 05:30. well the bike most probably needs maintenance, and on Saturdays the shop is only open till 4. sadly Stefan had to get up with me, ok half an hour later when coffee was ready, still quite early. But as i am packing the tent, well. i did leave him the hammock though and the morning was cold but as well sunny. By 0830 i was riding and by 0940 at the shop. The ride out of Banff was quite spectacular, well the Canadian Rockies are.
Reason for visiting the shop was twofold.
one: through them i ordered my front fender and the chain guard. well the chain guard was a bust due to the guy i was having a conversation with ordered a chain guide (did not even know they existed for motorcycles), got refunded without hesitation. and the fender did not show up on this day.
second: my fork started leaking about 1500 km after we left fairbanks, classic. After a quick look at it they told me, that she needs to be rebuild. Well that took about 4 hours. but i am good now for the next kilometers. Until we have our standard service intervall, there we need a valve readjustment. Julien, the mechanic gave the motorcycle a once over and everything is good. well break and coolant fluid would not be good for candian winters as it is only spec´d for -20°C and not -40°C ;-).
the flat was ready by 4, but sadly only one set of keys is available. well everything is fine and sleeping on the couch is quite ok. Besides she is close to 17 AVE and downtown. We had a nice Yemeni dinner and after a beer further down the street, Stefan went home and i explored Calgary’s nightlife a little longer;-)
Sunday: Calgary
Getting to bed at half three did take his toll, but i managed to get a run in, and even though i did not feel overly great i managed to stay below 6min/km. not much more happened on Sunday.
Monday: Calgary
Exploring Calgary, the friendly first impression we had was enforced. The Bow river is being used as a recreational area with bike and walking lanes along side it, and people running boats and SUP’s down the river. Downtown even has something that resembles a European style pedestrian zone. With cars usually being everywhere that was really nice for a change. Afternoon drinks and snacks and basically we were done for the day 😉
Tuesday: Calgary
So today is the day collecting my parts, oh and i am already pissed. Collecting the chain guard in the northern shop and of course they come without bolts and despite having a garage and servicing bikes, the bolts for the chain guard would have to be ordered. Well, collecting my fender was another story, as it was delivered but not inventoried at the time i arrived at the shop and of course bolts they do not have as well. bloody murder.
I need to retract that, seems like the guy i was talking to had another cup of coffee in the meanwhile, as he not only went on a search for my fender, but while he found the fender, he as well found matching bolts for my chain guard. Puh at least i can now put everything on the motorcycle, and do not need to find bolts myself.
Bike is all fixed up, happy that this is done, so under the assumption that nothing breaks until we are back home, the license plate holder is the only thing that still needs fixing. Well maybe at the 60k km service intervall – depending on the lead time of delivery. ´coz the current parcel service that was chosen by the garage was a rather shitty one, or i am already so used to the next day delivery Amazon offers in Germany.






This concludes week #41
Till next time
Happy Hacking everyone