Panamerican Highway – week #30 – still waiting, enjoying Mexico
[19/06/2024 – 26/06/2024[
Our last week – whenever you read it
As Stefan pointed out, the first part, which for quite some time now, is called “Intro” is no intro anymore, it is the text. So it needs a new title. Here you go, borrowed from John Oliver, with slight adaptions, and at least in my mind it makes sense.
So where were we, ah yes Ciudad Madera. Pretty place, on a plateau at around 2000m elevation. The one day we spent there was filled with blogging, some errands that needed to be run and mapping out a route towards the west again. That meant as well, a proper gravel experience through the northern mexican mountains, to then reconnect with the Ruta del Sierra Alta.
On our way towards El Largo, we came across the a place called 40 Casas, but sadly it was not open at 20 to nine in the morning, so no visit of that archaeological site. The stage itself eased us into the gravel, rather wide gravel road, without any big rocks or very deep, loose sand. Up there log works where commencing. Basically we drove through one large pine forest throughout the day. After La Nortena, the gravel road became more of a dirt road (Feldweg in German), with sometimes big rocks laying around, some steep inclines, up to a point (100 km from the nearest paved road) that he would take a paved road if someone would offer. At this point we just got through the steepest section, where Stefan made the mistake of stopping in the first third of the section, tumbling his bike for the second time that day. He got up the hill with a bit of an effort. I myself did tumble the bike only once, similar idiotic move like the one Stefan had the second time, never a good idea to stop in the middle of an ascent. The comment of Stefan that stuck in my head after this section was: “A professional would have stood on his bike going up there like it was a straight paved road, a beginner would have ridden the bike over the side.” We did neither, so i guess that makes us less beginners then in December where we definitely where quite green. Still are, but the green might have gotten a bit darker.
While the day kept to be challenging, the reward we got in terms of landscape and loneliness was well worth it. Of course that far removed from anything resembling civilization, always comes with the downside of no help available should something happen to you. No cellphone reception, the nearest village 60 km out, and anyway no place to land a helicopter (if there would be one available). Once we reached Nacon Chico, the road became paved again, and about 30 km later joined the SON 69. We chose to go East as the next village was at higher elevation then the next one to the West and we hoped for some less heat. Thanks to the cockroaches, we could negotiate a lower price for the room, so basically they paid for our beers that evening.
I have said it once, and most likely will say it on more occasions in the future, but the north of Mexico, from Novojoa onwards is amazing. The landscapes, the roads, the endless pine forests are well worth coming up here even if the infrastructure may be a bit difficult at times, in terms of gas stations and places to sleep at night.
On our way to Hermosilla the next day the landscape kept to be breathtaking with the absolute highlight being the viewpoint at “Cruz Del Diablo“, have a look at our drone footage.
We spent a few days in Hermosilla, and on Saturday there was a pride parade. We are back at the low lands now, and drove towards Puerto Libertad, a small fishing village tucked between the ocean and the desert. The desert does have some hills around, and cacti forests as far as one can see. The last day of the week led us back to the gringo trail (apologies my american readers) to Puerto Penasco or Rocky Point. Prices are quite outrages compared to other places in Mexico, a lot of resort hotels where you can easily spend 500.-$ per night. Same goes for the restaurants, i mean the day before a beer went for 40.- Mexican peso, here it is 70.-. And food is the same. Don´t get me wrong the food is still good, however the Mexican spiciness gets mellowed down quite a bit and the prices again hiked. Puerto Penasco itself is like 90km away from the Sonoyta/Lukeville border crossing, so even on a weekday in low season you have quite an U.S. presence here.
So here is Stefans two cents on my salsa thoughts: “So basically you are formulating the thesis, that the quality of salsa is indirect proportional to the overall food price.”
It is Wednesday the 26th of June, while I am writing these lines, and sadly my inbox still does not have the EPA letter of exemption in it. So now what do we do. Well you´ll read all about it in next weeks shenanigans
Wednesday: Ciudad Madera
From all the places we have stayed this week, this was definitely my favorite, chill, laid back town at elevation. Nice temperatures and good food.
Thursday: Ciudad Madera – Huachinera



















The most challenging and rewarding day of the week; not all is properly covered by the video footage, but i definitely recommend watching it.
Friday: Huachinera – Hermosilla








Well, enough said above; here again the video footage I can only recommend.
Saturday: Hermosilla
Pride party, quite a few flags, which I have never seen, at least not in Europe/Germany on any pride event. Very vocal about trans rights, which I cannot remember to have heard in Munich on last years CSD. And when thinking about Mexico as this rather catholic country it was very refreshing to see all the people out and about enjoying life.



Sunday: Hermosilla
Stefan seemed to have a rather early morning, using it to go for a run. I did do the same thing, just much much later in the day. The heat and a slight navigational mishap, led me to not reach my turnaround point, and to top it all of, I threw in the towel at 7 km. Running at 40°C is no joke, let me tell you.
Monday: Hermosilla – Puerto Libertad







The beginning of that ride was a bit boring, and the roads except kept to be very straight, however we had to dance in the pothole ballet again, and there was quite a lot to see in terms of landscape and vegetation. Well and then there was the view of the sea of cortez, and a large body of water gets me everytime.
Tuesday: Puerto LIbertad – Puerto Penasco/Rocky Point




Basically the same like the day before, rather straight roads, with views of the sea of cortez and later the highrise hotel resorts of Puerto Penasco. Some of them seem to be partial investment ruins, others still are being built, and quite some are fully operational, however it is low season, seemingly.
And this concludes week #30
Till next time,
Happy Hacking everyone