Panamerican Highway – week #27 – bendy roads, volcanoes, election and more heat

Panamerican Highway – week #27 – bendy roads, volcanoes, election and more heat

[29/05/2024 – 05/06/2024]

Intro

This week started of with a cultural walk through Oaxaca´s garden. Only 30 years in existence it holds a wide variety of plants indigenous to the state of Oaxaca. All plants have been transported there (with a 90% success rate) and among other plants, they have the great great (many greats) grandparent of corn there. Sadly I did not ask if, and if so, how long it would take to regrow the wide variety of corn we know today from that ancient corn plant. Oaxaca is as well the region where 90% of all Mezcal is being produced.
We followed the 190 further on towards Puebla, where we did stay in Cholula with a rather magnificent view of the Popocatepetl, a name that was familiar to me, but it took me while to realize that my grandmother told me that name. I have forgotten the context in which she told a story about Popocatepetl, that anyway is not important, important is the fact that I remembered. Our grandmother (speaking on behalf of the family here) passed away, short before the trip started.
Our stay in Cholula coincided with the Mexican presidential elections. Interesting fact about elections in Central America, on the day before and the day of the elections no alcohol is being sold. Somebody told us that somewhen back in Panama, and Stefan joked about it on the 31st of May, but I had totally forgotten about it. Well sober birthday it was. The only pity was, that Cholula does have quite a lively bar scene, and I am pretty sure that they would have had proper drinks. But oh well, a bar will be found in the future.
We travelled further on the Ruta 85 and oh my the route we have taken through Mexico is by far the most interesting one in all of Central America. Don´t get me wrong the other countries had to offer amazing views as well, but this here is on a different level. Bendy roads, up and down all the while riding through breathtaking landscape. I as well realized that jungle is not my thing, too uniform, impressive but monotone. Here we have moved through jungle (right after the bordercrossing), barren desert like landscape on our way to Oaxaca, and a green tree, cactus and palm tree mixture dry land, while moving from sea level to 2300 m elevation, with mountains towering at over 5000m elevation, back down to 600 m here at Agua Bueno.
Last week our highest temperature while riding was 42°C, on the 04th of June we had 47°C for a longer duration of time (2hrs) and I am pretty sure that under the motorcycle gear the temperature was even higher. That really threw me off, the exhaustion was mind blowing, and I could feel my reaction time to become slower. It may not have been the best idea to keep riding, but on the other hand we are on a bit of schedule. In addition to that, the days before when riding I had a down phase usually around 15:00 hrs. Which is also why we did not directly drive to Cholula but made a stop in Acatlan de Osorio.
Currently my assumption is as well that 47°C will not be the end of it, wondering if the Death Valley or some place in Mexico (we have not yet been to) will keep the record for this trip. (Disclaimer: when we write about temperature, we can only recite what the motorcycle temp sensor tells us. This temp sensor is of course influenced by the engine heat, asphalt heat and so on)
One last thing, if you have the choice between a Ruta # and a Ruta # D, and you like bendy less trafficy roads, take the Ruta # D.

Wednesday: Oaxaca

Visit to the garden, followed by a whole lot of chilling and blog writing. Luckily there the internet connection was much better then it is in our current location.

Thursday: Oaxaca

Visit to the Monte Alban archaeological site, and relaxation afterwards.

Friday: Oaxaca – Acatlan de Osorio

Ruta 190 was there to impress, followed by an afternoon low, which led us to the Hotel Mexico in Acatlan de Osorio. Lovely little town, dry heat, still in the evening at around 38°C. No AC in the room, but oh well.

Saturday: Acatlan de Osorio – Cholula

Ruta 190 again, I have to say if you read this, and you are planning to visit Mexico go drive the 190, it is worth it. Stefan had a slight error of judgement, when parking behind me at one of the photo stops along the way. In the process he tumbled both our bikes, and had his front a bit battered. Basically he decided that after the crash back in Argentina (i rear-ended him) and the one in Costa Rica (I got rear-ended) his motorcycle looked too pristine and that needed to change ;-). I am pretty sure he is telling a different story though.

The day ended with a beautiful view from the road and later from the appartment of Popocatepetl, who as well blew some smoke up in the air as greeting. Oh yes and Stefan´s engine light came on (yellow).

Sunday: Cholula

First attempt of finding an insurance for the United States and Canada, which seems to be a bit of a hassle. Let´s see how this is going to go and how much it´ll cost in the end. Stefan mended his front, and the engine light was still on, so he removed the battery connection, but sometime later, after reconnecting, the engine light was persistent.

Monday: Cholula – Jacala

Due to his engine light the plan was to only drive towards Ixmiquilpan, to go to a Yamaha dealer ship, before making a turn to the right onto the Ruta 85, which is supposedly part of the initial Panamerican Highway. Funnily enough, the engine light stopped complaining, about whatever the sensor was complaining before and we decided to ride the 85. Jacala is a “larger” town there and we reached with some beautiful scenery behind us, and a video of an idiot at work (IG: @leif_ericcson)

Tuesday: Jacala – Agua Buena

The wonderful views of the 85 started the day, later on the lower got, the 85 became more of a construction site. At one point we had to turn around to ride a detour, as the construction fully blocked the road. My Nav System gave the detour as the path to take, but if i would have followed the Nav System I still would not hear the end of it, as it was a rather steep dirt road, with 180° bends and quite some traffic. Stefan was not amused. As said temperatures rose and rose and I really felt the effects throughout the afternoon. After all we arrived safely in Agua Buena and as the accomodation offered an AC we stay there for two nights. As with so many other accomodations here in Mexico and throughout Central America, it usually does come without breakfast, which again leads to us making our own coffee, usually in the shower, as we currently have no propane only alcohol to cook.

This concludes week #27
Till next time
Happy Hacking everyone

Comments are closed.