Panamerican Highway – week #23 – Shit Happens
[01/05/2024 – 08/05/2024[
Intro
This week I did want to bore you with some thoughts about planning, but like so often plan met reality and things changed.
On Tuesday the 07th of May I was involved in an accident, where i got rear-ended. My speed was roughly about 50 km/h, the other guy most like some where between 70 and 80 km/h on a 80 km/h stretch of road in Costa Rica. I was driving about 50m behind Stefan when i saw something falling off a tree onto the road. Not knowing what it was I started breaking, while maintaining a straight line, as soon as i realized it is an iguana I let go of the breaks but by then I could already hear my rear brake before I felt the impact of the car behind me. Thrown backwards, I let go of the handlebar, eyes where closed as well. Once i got them open again, i realized i was still on the bike, still going in a straight line, but freehand. I managed to grab the handlebar again and safely get myself to stop the bike on the side of the road. I put the bike on the side, and after the initial self check came back with negative results on obvious injuries I lifted the bike back up – by then Stefan had turned around and parked his bike – gave Stefan the bike to park and took a picture of the guy driving the other vehicle and the vehicle. Words where exchanged, and I collected the parts that got damaged and where no longer attached to the bike. While returning to the bike I noticed the flat tire, and the broken of chain guard. Upon further inspection I as well noticed a dent in my rim and my suitcase holder was bent. Adrenalin was pumping but no headache, just some lightheadedness.
Police took about 2 hrs. to get to the scene, but the only thing they did was noting that there was an accident with appearently no injuries. So they gave both of us a ticket. Looking at all the damage, not having a clue where the next proper Yamaha dealer is, I really thought the trip is over here and now. Meanwhile a young man, who was driving past us before stopped and asked what happened. Due to him riding a Yamaha as well we asked, whether he knows a Yamaha dealer and a mechanic. Turned out Thony is a mechanic and he offered to fix the bike up, already did a road side damage assessment and contacted a dealer for a new back tire.

Once the police business was out of the way I limped towards Thony´s house with Stefan riding behind me. Thony and his crew where already waiting and after Stefan received the directions of where in Liberia to get the new tire and tube the rear tire was gone off the bike in 60 seconds. Recreating the rear took a bit more time. Long story short by sunset i was riding my own bike properly towards our accomodation for the night in Filadelfia.

Next morning 07:45 I was at traffic court, just to be told if I want to make a statement I would have to do so with a certified translator or a person I would trust, and I had 10 days to do so. The only thing they told me up front is, that until the guilt of either party is determined, my bike would get a travel ban to leave Costa Rica, due to it being a foreign bike and myself not having a permanent residency in Costa Rica. In addition they told me that the process could take months rather then weeks. F.C.U.K. Me being absolutely certain that I am not guilty here.
Anyway I called Thony´s mother who does speak very good English and she was at the court within 30 minutes. The court clerk more or less explained the same thing i got told earlier. After a quick side step Thony´s mother told me that I should head for the border immediately, be happy that I am not in a hospital or worse and move on. Well that is exactly what we did, no statement made, 300.-€ spent for repairs and accommodation in Filadelfia and one story richer.
The bad thing is definitely the accident, the good thing first and formost, with the exception of a minor whiplash I am ok. The really cool thing is getting to know Thony, his mother and crew who helped complete strangers out of the goodness of their heart. Thony initially only wanted to charge us for the tire change. @Thony_soto_stunt_cr if you want to have a look what he usually is up to.
The rest of the week
Other things did happen this week as well like enjoying the wonderful riding in Costa Rica, a djungle tour, El Arenal volcano and lake, diving, seasickness and Pura Vida, which is not just some PR thing but actually lived by many people.
Wednesday – jungle tour to Tortuguero
Getting up at 04:30 in the morning is always great – NOT. But it was fully worth it. Our host in Cariari is running a business in ferrying people towards Tortuguero, and as well providing jungle tours on the way to Tortuguero. This tour was the reason for us to spend three nights in Cariari. And it was fully worth it. Stefan and myself where the only two persons on the boat and Dixon took the time to not only show us animals that we would not even have noticed, caimans, lizards, iguanas birds … we even saw one alligator, but as well explained, about the agriculture around, the reservation and the national park. We spent the whole day and it was a very good day.










Thursday – Cariari – Lago Arenal
The next day took us towards El Arenal volcano and lake Arenal net to it, where we found a rather nice guest house, run by an older German fellow who lived there since the late 90´s. Around the lake a lot of Germans have settled, or at least it seemed so, and some swiss build a proper swiss farm. Very relaxing afternoon, and during the night we saw the southern cross again, which – as we are currently at 11°N – will slowly start sinking beyond the horizon as we go further north.



















Friday – Tamarindo
While everything up to Lago Arenal was lush and green, on this day like 20km into the ride we crossed a little ridge line, and all of a sudden the farmland was rather dry. Where it wasn´t it was only due to an irrigation system. What should have been an easy drive ended rather abruptly due to a bridge closure, which then gave us a detour of a 100km some dirt roads and a short passage that looked like proper T.E.T stuff. It was a really beautiful riding day.
Tamarindo itself is very touristic, but at least in my opinion in a good way. We went there to go diving on Sunday which we prearranged.
Saturday – Chilling in Tamarindo
The one thing we did on Saturday was figuring out, how we got our drone savely through Nicaragua, as Nicarague has a ban on drones, so no way we would get it over the border. We found LibertyExpress and asked a hotel owner in Guatemala if we could send the drone to him. Alright, set for Monday once they open.










Sunday – Diving
Second dive of the journey was here. Again getting up early, having coffee at the beach. After the 07:00 meeting and getting a wetsuit and fins we where off to Islas Catalina, a 30 min boat ride from shore. The first dive was really beautiful, a bit of a current, sharks, fish. Sadly a bit murkier water then in Santa Catalina but oh well. The dive was pretty good.
Between the first and the second dive, there was a bit of a swell which brought Stefan´s seasickness back to light. Pretty severe even. Even though he went on the second dive ( I thought it better then to sit it out in the rocking boat ) it did not subside, so sadly he was green up to the point when we were back on shore. But even then for the rest of the day he was out of business. The only thing we did was changing our pre-air filters on the bike, which the day before Stefan soaked in oil. Afterwards I convinced Stefan to stay one more night, which he reluctantly agreed to. For me the night got finished with a wonderful beach side Caipirinha. And later a Chicken Pesto Sandwich at the Handlebar, which is an actual mountainbike shop and bar in Tamarindo.









Monday – Relaxing
The package has been sent, but not to the hotel owner mentioned previously but towards the only liberty express shop in Guatemala City. We are both wondering if she will actually make it there.
After my run, Stefan and myself took our Malay frisbee to show her the central american pacific sands. With a really beautiful sunset the day was coming to a close and Stefan did admit it waa a good idea to stay this one more day.
Tuesday – Shit happened – see Intro
One last thing to mention. A while back Stefan and myself talked about: What if the trip was over now, and honestly I would not mind. We have traveled 24´000 km we have seen the Andes from South to North and jumped the Darien Gap. However standing behind my bike, seeing the damage my first thought was, this is it, and the second thought immediately was, I do not want it to be over and definitely not like this. This should be decided by us not by some external force.


This concludes week 23
Till next time
Happy Hacking everyone