[29/11/2023 – 16/04/2024]

This shows our route through South America with Valparaiso – Chile as a starting point and Bogota – Colombia as our point of departure into Central America.

While writing this entry we are in El Valle de Anton in Panama – Central America. Please do keep in mind that this is the experience of two German citizens, at the moment of writing for most of the countries in South America we did not need visa and usually can stay up to 90 days in the particular country, Ecuador being the exception here with a 10 day transit permit, after the incident in Jan ´24.

The idea and expectations

Stefan and myself knew about this special form of a sabbatical since 2018. But it took the COVID pandemic, motorcycle licenses and myself being otherworldly pissed to try and get this idea out of our headsand onto the road. We chose the panamerican highway due to the fact that we have been in South America previously and already have traveled some of the highway in Chile. Also on the plus side, you only have two languages you need to deal with, Spanish and English (if you do not venture into Brasil). In addition at the time other options where a bit limited.

While I myself did and do not have any expectation on the trip, Stefan had thoughts about whether or not our riding skills might be good enough, especially after our 2023 TET experience. Especially after tumbling the bike numerous times (both of us) the thought of quitting the trip did creep its way into his mind. My concerns are more centered around the equipment itself. Will it hold, what happens if something breaks, it is kind of hard to get replacement parts in Patagonia or some of the countries we are going to visit. How careful do I have to ride, how reckless do i have to ride. Will I have enough money, what about my relationships, both to Manuela and my friends at home.

Anyway after we requested the time out, we went forward with planning.

Hard Facts

• ~21´000 km traveled
• 12 border crossings
• 6 countries travelled
  • Chile
  • Argentina
  • Bolivia
  • Peru
  • Ecuador
  • Colombia
• 1 flat tire in Bolivia somewhere north of Quimes
• 3 bike services
  • Germany
    • standard 10´000 km
  • Mendoza
    • standard 20´000 km
  • Cartagena
    • standard 30´000 km service
    • new drive chain
• 2 new set of tires
  • Germany
    • Pirelli Scorpion Rally STR – the better choice
  • Lima – Peru
    • Michelin Anakee – nice weather tire
• 1 Accident
  • i rear ended Stefan in Caleta Oliva – Argentina
• countless bike tumbles

The Bikes

• Tenere 700 Rally 2021 – Stefan
  • Yamaha Grip Heating – sadly that did not survive South America
  • Yamaha suitcase system
  • metal radiator protection
  • handlebar riser
  • additional metal hand guards
  • SW-Motec 600 Duffle
  • Enduristan Sandstorm 4M tank bag
• Tenere 700 2020 – Dominik
  • Daytona Grip Heating
  • Yamaha suitcase system
  • metal radiator protection
  • handlebar riser
  • addtional metal hand guards
  • SW-Motec 600 Duffle
  • SW-Motec 350 Duffle
  • Enduristan Sandstorm 4M tank bag

Other than Stefan´s grip heating we had no problems with the bikes whatsoever, servicing them in Argentina was not a problem either, Colombia was a bit of a problem, but in the end it turned out ok. Parts and tires are a problem, depending on the country you are in, for us the tires that were available in Peru are just simply not good enough for our purposes, and I go even further for the purpose of an adventure bike. And for the service in Colombia, I just made a bad choice with the shop we went with. On the other hand I have no idea if another shop would have been better, and the bikes are working. Since we have entered Bolivia the number of adventure bikes has dropped to nearly zero, at least we did not meet as many as we have on the ruta 40 in Argentina or the carreterra austral and Atacama desert in Chile.

Insurance

For Chile/Argentina/Boliva we got a civil liabilty insurance via Allianz Argentina.

Peru we bought right after the actual border crossing, i would recommend to buy before even checking into Peru, which we did not.

Ecuador – we did not get any civil liability insurance, and where even told by customs that you do not need one in Ecuador, no idea how it would have played out if something would have happened, but I am very happy that we did not find out.

Colombia – got the SOAT at Pasto … to us the better part of a day.

Border Crossings

12 border crossings in total

• 8 times between Chile and Argentina
• Chile – Bolivia
• Bolivia – Peru
• Peru – Ecuador
• Ecuador – Colombia

With the exceptions of crossing into Ecuador and crossing into Colombia, our border crossing experience was straightforward and without any problems. Our luggage was mostly checked by the Chileans, once by the Argentinians and by the Bolivians, None of the other countries looked at it.

Ecuador in 2024 was an outlier as they currently have the rule that if you cross the border to Ecuador by land you need to have a criminal record certificate that is translated into Spanish. We did not have one, so they let us sweat for about 30 minutes (we were the only ones at immigration at that time) before they decided to let us cross, with a 10 day transit permit.

Colombia immigration for us a person was no problem at all, took about 5 mins in total, exit Ecuador walk across the bridge immigrate into Colombia. The bikes however where a different matter, as the paperwork was ditigal but not digital and you cannot save it, need to upload among other things your entry stamp of your passport (so you can only do it after you yourself have entered Colombia).

Highlights

Stages

Tecka (Argentina) – Chaiten (Chile)
Tolombon (Argentina) – Susques (Argentina) – Ruta 40
Quime (Bolivia) – La Paz (Bolivia)
Puquio (Peru) – Ica (Peru) – Desert meet Ocean

Landscape

Parque Patagonia – Argentina
Reserva Nacional de Fauna Andina Eduardo Avaroa – Hot Spring Pool – Atacama – Bolivia
Isla Incahuasi – Uyuni – Bolivia
Intag Valley – Ecuador
Hacienda San Isidro – Colombia

Most demanding moments

Wind (up to 90km/h) on Ruta 40 – Argentina
Bad 73 short before Mendoza – Argentina
All roads of Bolivia except for the highways
Landslide Ruta 100 Santa Theresa to Andahuaylas – Peru
Watercrossing due to massive rain – Peru
Sandbox – Peru

Pictures

How to choose a minimum of your favorite images, do not know, but this is what we came up with.

Stefan

Dominik

Conclusion

Is it idiotic to go on a journey like ours with only ~20´000 km previously ridden, especially if there is next to none prior gravel experience, hell yeah. Is it fun, hell yeah, but you need to be open to humiliation by your lack of skill and embrace learning opportunities where ever they come up. Would we do it differently, hell no – one can plan one self to death. Just jump the water will warm up eventually.
Let´s see how the next part – Central America – will turn out.

That being said
Till next time
Happy Hacking everyone